Following Isabel
Isabel Godin set off from Riobamba on October 1, 1769. She followed the Chambo River out of the Andes to Canelos, and from there traveled down the Bobonaza River. To research The Mapmaker's Wife, Robert Whitaker retraced her steps, leaving from Cajabamba--which was the site of colonial Riobamba--on October 1, 2002.

He and Cary Kanoy traveled by bicycle from Cajabama to Puyo, where they were joined by Ricardo Alzamora and Luis Hernandez. They then traveled down the Bobonaza River to Andoas by dugout canoe, piloted on the trip by Tito Machoa and Marlon Santi, who are from Sarayacu, a village of about 1,000 on the Bobonaza.
(See slides.)

Cary Kanoy has worked as a guide in Ecuador for a number of years, and now has his own guiding company, Core Expeditions.

Luis Hernandez is director of the Cuyabeno Lodge in the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve in Ecuador's northern Oriente.) He is also now preparing a trip for tourists that will follow La Condamine's route into the Amazon.

See The Region Today for information about visiting Sarayacu.